Back to Tel Aviv

Mark and I split off from the group on Friday to hang out in Tel Aviv on our own. In case you didn't know, Tel Aviv is the modern, hip city where things actually stay open on Shabbat (the Sabbath). In fact, what seems to happen is at dusk things go quiet for a few hours; then around midnight the whole city lights up, and there's people all over.

We started by heading over to visit Mark's cousin Bina before lunch. She's out in the 'burbs a little, so it's a long taxi ride but not too bad. Our driver turned out to be an Israeli Jew from Iraq who speaks very little English, but was happy to share his opinions about Iraq and Lebanon nonetheless.

Bina greeted us with warm smiles and cold drinks. Her husband has pretty debilitating Parkinson's, and we're supposed to not be shocked. I wouldn't know, but to me he was maybe having a good day with that. They also have a Filipina helper, and I traded notes with her about where she's from and where my family is.

Our visit was pleasant but short. We were a bit careful with the politics, because Mark likes her and out of respect for the fact that she lost a young son to a sniper during the first Intifada. Not that politics didn't come up...of course not! But we stayed in places where we would more or less agree.

Our taxi driver was waiting outside to take us back to the center of Tel Aviv.

Time for a little shopping! After checking for bargains at the colorful open air Carmel Market, we walk over to Shenkin Street, the Melrose of Tel Aviv. Trendy shops and trendy people, with ultra-Orthodox men passing out fliers and trying to talk to passersby. I picked up some cute under shorts and a fresh designer t-shirt because the one I was wearing was getting too sweaty.



We considered some options for chilling out and cooling off. We didn't know what was playing, but we headed over to where the cinemas are. On the way, though, I spotted the sea, and we decided to hang on the beach for a while. And THAT was bliss! Got into my new swim suit and jumped into the Mediterranean water. Gorgeous temperature, lovely sun, and a beach packed with sexy people.

At one point while treading water I heard a low roar getting louder, and looking up I saw maybe 12 or 15 military choppers heading northwards. Going to Haifa? Patrolling the coast? I'm not sure. It's weird how daily life really just continues, but then the war intrudes just a little. But just then a Brazilian band kicked up some samba at a nearby bar.

I doubt if there are any Brazilian bands playing in Beirut tonight?

Having a bit of food at a cafe, we spoke to the girl behind the counter. She was very nice and very pretty. When we got to politics she said how much she hates what Israel is doing, she feels awful that so many people are dying, and she's glad they're bombing the shit out Lebanon and Israel should take over the country. And she said this in pretty much the same breath, demonstrating that characteristic many Israelis seem to have, not only to be opinionated but to hold completely contrary opinions about the same thing at the same time.